TO RID THE MIND OR BODY OF AN AFFLICTION
SPELL TO PROTECT AGAINST DISEASE
EGYPTIAN KNOT AMULET FOR HEALING
THE GOLDEN CORD SPELL FOR HEALING
THE HEALING VASE
SPIDERWEB HEALING SECRETS
4 Parts Frankincense
3 Parts Myrrh
2 Parts benzoin
1 Part sandalwood
1 Part Gardenia petals
1/2 Part Orris
EIGHTFOLD HEARTH INCENSE
2 parts Dragon’s Blood
2 Parts Myrrh
1 Part Juniper
1/2 part Sassafras
1 part Orange flowers
1/2 Part rose petals
Burn for a safe, warm, loving home. Also give as a gift to others.
EGYPTIAN LOVE INCENSE
1/2 oz Benzoin
1/2 oz Cinnamon
1/2 oz Galangal
1/2 oz Frankincense
1 oz Myrrh
3 drops honey
3 drops lotus oil
1 drop rose oil
Pinch of dried Orris root
4 parts Frankincense
3 Parts Gum Arabic
2 parts Myrrh
1 Part Cedar
1 Part Juniper
1 part Calamus
1 part Cinnamon
Burn during Egyptian rituals, or to honor any ancient Egyptian deity, such as Isis, Thoth, etc.
EARTH INCENSE (Planetary)
1 part Pine needles
1 Part Thyme
few drops Patchouly oil
Burn to honor the Earth, and for all earth-revering rituals.
2 parts pine resin or needles
1 part patchouly
1 pinch finely powdered salt
a few drops cypress oil
Burn for invoking the powers of the element of earth for money, stability, etc.
2 Parts Sandalwood
1 Part Rose petals 1 Part Camphor
few drops Tuberose bouquet
few drops Jasmine oil
Burn a bit in the bedroom prior to sleep to produce psychic dreams. Remove the censer from the room before retiring. Use only genuine camphor.
Be sure you have all necessary ingredients. If you lack any, decide on
Each ingredient must be finely ground, preferably to a powder, using either a
mortar and pestle or an electric grinder. Some resins won’t powder easily, but
with practice you’ll find the right touch. When I first worked with herbs I
couldn’t powder frankincense. It kept on gumming to the sides of the mortar and
to the tip of the pestle. After a while I stopped fighting it (and cursing it,
I’ll admit-not a good thing to do with herbs used in incenses) and got into the
flow of the work. The frankincense came out just fine.
When all is ready, fix your mind on the incense’s goal-protection, love, health.
In a large wooden or ceramic bowl, mix the resins and gums together with your
hands. While mingling these fragrant substances, also mix their energies.
Visualize your personal power-vibrating with your magical goal-exiting your
hands and entering the incense. It is this that makes homemade incense more
effective than its commercial counterparts.
Next, mix in all the powdered leaves, barks, flowers and roots. As you mix,
continue to visualize or concentrate on the incense’s goal.
Now add any oils or liquids (wine, honey, etc.) that are included in the recipe.
Just a few drops are usually sufficient. On the subject of oils: If there’s a
sufficient amount of dry ingredients in the recipe, you can substitute an oil
for an herb you lack. Simply ensure that the oil an essential oil, for
synthetics smell like burning plastic when smoldered.
Once all has been thoroughly mixed, add any powdered gem-stones or other power
boosters. A few-not many-of the recipes in this book call for a pinch of
To produce this, simply take a small stone of the required type and pound it in
a metal mortar and pestle (or simply smash it with a hammer against a hard
surface). Grind the resulting pieces into a powder and add no more than the
scantiest pinch to the incense.
One general power-boosting “stone” is amber. A pinch of this fossilized resin
added to any mixture will increase its effectiveness, but this can be rather
The incense is now fully compounded. Empower the incense and it is done. Store
in a tightly capped jar. Label carefully, including the name of the incense and
date of composition. It is ready for use when needed.
RULES OF COMBUSTIBLE INCENSE COMPOSITION
Here are some guidelines to follow when compounding combustible incense. These
are for use with the Cone Incense Base #2 recipe above. If they aren’t followed,
the incense won’t properly burn. There’s less room for experimentation here than
with non-combustible incenses.
* First off, never use more than ten percent saltpeter. Ever!
* Also, keep woods (such as sandalwood, wood aloe, cedar, juniper and pine) and
gum resins (frankincense, myrrh, benzoin, copal) in the proper proportions: at
least twice as much powdered wood as resins. If there’s more resinous matter,
the mixture won’t burn.
* Naturally, depending on the type of incense you’re adding to the base, you may
have to juggle some proportions accordingly. Simply ensure that frankincense and
its kin never constitute more than one-third of the final mixture, and all
should be well.
* Though this hasn’t covered all aspects of combustible incense making (that
could be a book in itself), it should provide you with enough guidelines to make
your own. Experiment, but keep these rules in mind.